Sweet, I've actually heard good things about Warwick strings. I'll have to give 'em a try, especially since the site I buy my strings from has them for 9$ right now.

Please, let me know how you like them.

Yo Opsius I got me a set of those Warwick Reds! I'll have 'em on my main bass not too long from now. I've milked the tone out of my Black Beauties for like 7 months now and they've finally begun to shit the bed. I'm excited to go back to some burly stainless steel strings for the first time in a while.

Have a set of Warwick Reds on my main bass now. They sound pretty darn great first time playing. Not as crisp as the Rotosounds and not as easy to play as the DRs but they have a killer low end. When they break in I'll really hear what they can do. I'll do some recording with them too.

I hadn't been in this thread for a while now, sorry I missed your posts

I'm glad you made the move and decided to check them out! And I'm even more glad that you had a good first impression of them. How have you liked them now that a couple weeks have passed?

What do you mean exactly with "not as easy to play"?

Oh sweet, so you're not dead!

So far I love these strings. They're just as good as you promised! By "not as easy to play", that was the initial feel before they broke in. Right out of the box they had high tension and were really tinny sounding, but now they are totally broken in now and play just like I love. I went with the big 105's for a change (I usually play the 100 gauge) and they play really well. The tension is low and they do have a totally killer low end as well as that nice stainless steel growl. My one and only complaint with them would be that the G string has a very aggressive ring compared to the rest, but as the break in even more that may change. If you'd like, here's what they sound like on my beloved P-bass: https://youtu.be/EN695PXPA6U and https://youtu.be/go3-dsQWXLw

Ah, going .105 is a wise choice as well. The caliber Real Men play!

I've senn a few of your covers, actually. I liked "Hitman" (my favourite MC song), and I'll surely check out these two you linked!

That's my favorite MC song too! It's a lot of fun actually. The Devil Game cover was the first video I did with the strings broken in. I believe they were on the bass for a week and a half. Despite its problems, it turned out nice, and that song is hard as FUCK too so I'm glad I pulled it off.

I once had a set of strings that was extremely light gauge, the E was a .090 and it the G was like, idk, a .030-.035-ish and they felt so wrong. I tried them just for fun and it wasn't any fun. I got me a set of my usual Rotosound 66's in the .105 gauge as well so after these Warwick's die, I'll be able to really see how well the two compare.

Have played Metal Church (the song) in the past and have been busy with Watch the Children pray. MC is a great band. Period!

Awesome! I agree. I wanna learn The Spell Can't be Broken on bass next.

But that's not why I came in here. I came in here to say OH MY GOD I JUST LEARNED HOW TO DOUBLE THUMB. HOLY FUDGE. IT JUST FUCKIN' CAME TO ME AND I CAN DO IT NOW. I'VE BEEN PLAYING SLAP AND POP FOR LIKE 3 YEARS NOW (bass in general for a total of 4) AND I FINALLY CAN DOUBLE THUMB NOW.

Sorry for that, but holy crap this is amazing. It's so much fun! That technique eluded me for so long, but now I can actually do it (quite fast too!).

Very good YT channel about bass guitar and bass playing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jL5J5mCRQ8o

Figures I had to dig for the dedicated bass thread...

Does anybody know of a relatively easy-to-find bass amp that has a 16-ohm output, tube or solid state, class A/B or D, with at least 300w of clean headroom? I've got a guitar amp in my sights that I can use that should do the trick, but was wondering if there was a true bass amp with the 16-ohm output (most on the market are 8 or less).

Why do you need a 16-ohm output?
A guitar amp can do the trick but the EQ frequencies are chosen for a guitar not for a bass so that would differ in your sound.

The cab I'm using is a 16 ohm cab. I know I can run it with certain solid state/class D bass amps, but I'd be sacrificing power. Just wondering if there was a true bass amp out there with 16 ohm capabilities, otherwise I'll stick with the guitar amp + bass preamp/EQ route.

What about getting an extra cab?
Or getting another cab instead of this one?

Well the idea was to use the cabs I have already, haha. BUT! I just found a nice deal on a Peavey Firebass 700 and snatched it up, after I put it thru its paces I may get a different cab, we'll see. I appreciate the help!

I haven't been able to play much bass lately, so I decided to get on it again and did this short video playing a very cool bass solo.

New video, this time is a full song I learned recently.

My favorite bass player

I have a question about bass cabinets.

I'm currently using a Hartke 410XL in combination with a Peavey 410 headliner. I want to replace the Peavey (or both if it's just that great) with something that will help deliver that warm low end without sacrificing my high mids. The original idea was to invest in a 110 to use in combination with the Hartke, to deliver the high end that I incorporate, while the Hartke continued to deliver the low end that I enjoy from it. In short, I'm a fan of the warm and smooth bass range, but when I hit my strings, I still want a bit of "clank" to be audible, aside from what will be used with my pedal(s).

I would like to ask for recommendations of anything in the price range of $200-$500. If there is something of more monetary value, it must be able to take a beating just in case as this equipment will be hitting the road often.

Maybe you could replace it with a 1x15 cabinet with adjustable horn?
A combination of a 15" cabinet paired with a 4x10" cabinet can get great results.
Don't know much about the prices since I don't live in the States.

I don't know how much substituting one 4x10'' with a 1x15'' would help you bring out more treble or upper mids, but combining a 1x15'' with a 4x10'' is definitely a popular set that has been proven successful many times, so as a general thing, that might be a great idea. If you're using a valve preamp, maybe some kind of clean boost or overdrive pedal would do the trick?

substitution a 115 with a vent would bring in the lows you want with the same fullness of attack with the 410. if you just use a single 110 you might as well not even bring that because it's literally not going to do a lick of shit for you.

Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.

I've put a little more thought into it, and I believe that because I'm already using a 410, I may as well invest in another 410. I say this because I've read that using a 110/215 in combination with a 410 can basically push too much power to the cab with less speakers. This being said, the cab that I will continue using is a Hartke VX410. Although I don't have a price range, I'm looking for something that will be on the road with me. I run my cabs at 8 ohms each in order to run 4 ohms into my amp (it pushes 300 watts at 4 ohms and 200 at 8 ohms).

The combination of 1x15 and 4x10 is very commonly used and I have never heard of one cabinet getting more power. If the impedances match than there should be no problem.
Of course they will sound different but one getting more power? It's a matter of physics and Ohm's Law dictates that if both cabinets have the same impedance, the power distribution will be equal.

Anyone into pedals for bass?

I just bought a Heliotropic from Fuzzrocious for my first bass pedal which will be put through my Orange AD200B tube amp and Ampeg American Heritage SVT 8X10. I hope there aren't any possible sink holes near buy, this thing could cause ground implosion lol.

Just bought a Boss SuperOctave (OC3) recently. Mainly to thicken my sound when the guitarplayer plays a solo.

Could anyone suggest a string set for bass tuned in standard C?
The bass is a 4-string spirit steinberger. Also I wanted to know if from a normal tuning I should do a general setup and how.
Thank you

Suggesting a string set is almost impossible since every person is different and that what I like doesn't have to be the same as what you like.
If you are tuned standard in C than any 5 string set will do. If your bass is a 4 string just forget about putting the G string on it.
When you change anything about your strings Intonation is always a good idea.
To properly iset up your bass you can search for tutorials on Youtube but I can give you a short instruction here as well.
1 Tune the strings to the desired pitch (C; E; A etc, whatever you fancy).
2 Feel if the strings are far away or close enough to the fret-board (this is a matter of what feels right for you)in every position. When you play do you hear a rattle or not; does every fretted note ring clearly. If the strings are to the height you want them to be and there is no rattle or fret buzz then you can continue to step 4 else continue with step 3.
3 To make sure you don't get fret buzz or rattles or if the strings do not have the same relative height to the fretboard (the distance from the string to the first fret should be the same for the second fret when pressing the string to the first fret and so on) then you have to give the trussrod a tweak. Since I don't know your bass or the trussrod installed I can't give you precise details here but when hearing rattles and fret buzz you should turn the other side than when the relative height is off. When there is fret buzz the neck should be set to be a little hollow and when the relative height is off the neck should be set a little more straight.
Go easy on the truss-rod when turning it for it will have more impact than you would think at first. Always let the neck set for a short while after adjusting the truss-rod.
4 Set the intonation by checking the tuning of the first string. If it is perfect check it again at the 12th fret. If these two differ you should move the bridge saddle. Which way depends on whether the 12th string tuning is higher or lower. By giving the saddle screw (the one going through the back of the bridge and then through the saddle as well, not one of those inside the saddle itself, they are for the saddle height) a small turn (not an entire turn but only a quarter or maybe half a turn) and checking the tuning again you will see soon enough which way the saddle has to go. Adjust so much that the tuning of both the open string and the 12th fret are both spot on.
When achieving that you have to do this entire process again but then by comparing the tuning of the open string to the tuning of the 12th fret but now also incorporate the 7th fret as well (unless you play a lot of notes above the 12th fret, then check with the 19th fret) until this to gives a perfect score on each note.
Now do this process for the remaining strings and when you have finished that your bass is almost completely ready and set up for the best performance.

The only thing left is another thing that is a matter of your own preferences: setting the height of the pick-ups. Don't set them too close to the strings or the magnetic force of the pick-ups might pull on your strings, don't set them too deep into the body for you loose signal that way. Just try to get them to the point that you feel that you get the output and sound you like.
Bear in mind though that the thinner the strings are the less output they provide so you might set the pick-ups in such a way that they are closer to the thinner strings than they are to the thicker strings to get a more even output but then again: look for what you want out of it.

I hope this helps you enough.

There's fairly limited options for Steinberger strings, but I've had the best luck with Ken Smiths, don't care for the sound of the La Bellas. These would be my suggestion for downtuning on a 4 string, heaviest available in double-ball end.
https://www.juststrings.com/ksb-aa-db-rwl-m.html